Silent Facade

The sun wasn’t shining on my ass yet when I woke up on the second day of my trip. In fact, it was still early, 8am Singapore time, 7am Cambodia time.

After a leisurely breakfast, I rented a bicycle (this time a T-bar one which I’ld continue to use for next 2 days) and started my way towards Angkor Thom, some 2km further away from Angkor Wat.

South gate to Angkor Thom

History lesson time! Angkor Thom is a 3km square walled city built as a new capital city in the late 12th century. Within the city, there are a few temples as well as the Royal Palace.

To get a trip within Angkor Thom, one can either ride a bicycle in, travel in motorcycle or tuk-tuk, or if have money to spare, wave USD10 at an elephant for a ride in. The only issue with having an elephant ride as a sort of attraction is that the elephant would leave steaming hot pile of ‘I’ve been here’ markings every now and then, fertilising the road and the soles of unwary tourists’ shoes.

Left: Elephant ride Right: Sweeping up elephant dung

The first stop within Angkor Thom was the Bayon. Similar to the towers of Angkor Wat, the giant stone faces making up the towers of Bayon are just as widely used in postcards.

Bayon

Looking at the structure of the temple, again, I wondered why they stacked rocks upon rocks to build temples. First of all, isn’t it just a matter of waiting for the rocks making up the roofs to crumble and fall under its own weight? I’m pretty sure there wasn’t anything like insurance policies for the monks and believers visiting the temples. Secondly, how the heck did they load those heavy rocks up? And those giant faces, I believe it’s carved before piecing it up like jigsaw. How did they do it?

What are they shooting?

Ahh...a model

In terms of architectural structure and concept, it is akin to those of Mayan civilization and the Egyptian pyramids, using rocks as bricks. Similarly, how they were built remained speculation. For the temples in Siem Reap, a guide (again overheard since I didn’t engage a guide) had brought attention to holes in each block of rock. Those, he said, were made when transporting the rocks up, possibly to place in poles.

Climb at own risk

Another resemblance to Mayan temples, and a bane to tourists, is the steep and narrow steps in all the temples. The Cambodians of old must have very small feet and good balance to actually use these steps. Logically, of course, it is a great way to defend since enemies can’t really charge up fast. It’s a miracle that with hundreds of tourists climbing up the steps at various sites, no one has make a big red splatter on the ground yet (not that I’m aware at least).

Steep steps at Bayon

After spending almost half a day exploring the nooks and crannies of the Bayon, I had lunch at one of the stalls set up outside. Ordering fried rice with egg, the portion was enough for two. But I was famished, the fried rice was good and every single grain went into my stomach.

Next stop was Baphuon temple. The temple is currently undergoing extensive restoration and as such was out of bounds.

Baphuon: Before and Now

Another ridiculously steep flight of steps

Going right next door is the Phimeanakas pyramid temple. These is the tallest scalable temple in Angkor Thom and guess what, I actually collected my guts and climbed it all the way to the top.

Left: Phimenakas Right: Climb up to peak

Left: Stairs up Phimenakas Right: View from top

No climbing sign on top of Phimenakas (after climbing the stairs and scaling the top)

I was practically jittering my way up the stairs, and lo and behold, a more obscene climb awaited me in order to get to the top. Going down was a lot worse (for me at least), basically because I had to look down. Thankfully, I did not ‘let go’ help moisturised the temple steps.

The Phimeanakas structure does not make sense to me. At least with other temples, there are varying levels to explore. For the Phimeanakas, it is actually a solid block base with just the very small area on top for any religious purposes. To me, it’s more like an altar. Then again, the guide book state that according to legend, the Kings of Angkor have to make love with the serpent every night at the top lest and disaster befalls. With that purpose, I guess they didn’t really need much space.

Kleangs (thought to be food store)

Hmm...should I share?

By the time I finished exploring Angkor Thom, it was almost 6pm (local time). Exiting the ancient capital, I noticed a lot of tourists were going up in a single direction. I thought it most probably be watching sunset atop the hill. I was proven right as I followed them as Singaporeans will follow their government.

Straight path up

There is a straight path of steps up to the Phnom Bakheng temple on top of the hill. Unfortunately it was probably deemed dangerous and blocked off. Poor souls like me had to go round and round the hill until we reached the top.
No surprises, there were already many people up at the temple. More people, including me, were climbing like monkeys up the flights of yet other obscenely steep and narrow steps.

People getting more...and more...

...and more

The people on top just got more and more, until a point I was wondering if this temple will one day collapse under the sheer weight of tourists given the day after day of such loading. As a matter of fact, the block of rock near an edge I was bracing my camera on, trembled when another tourist sat on it. No prizes for guessing I immediately moved to find another safer spot.

All geared up for sunset

Sun setting

Setting to yellow yolk

Given the fact that I was travelling on a bicycle, I didn’t wait for the sun to set completely as I didn’t want to get caught up in the carnival of tour buses, motorbikes and tuk-tuks.

I had taken the risk of catching the sunset and cycling back as I had noticed street lights along the roads from Angkor Thom to Siem Reap. Little did I know the lights from Angkor Thom to the ticket booth wouldn’t be lighted. Travelling based on vehicle lights (which not all vehicles switched on), I tried to keep to the side of the roads as much as possible.

I was virtually eating flies on my way back. It hit upon me then the reason windshield and visor on helmets were invented.

Reaching safely back to my hotel, I took a shower before heading out for dinner and a quiet read at a bubble tea shop, which became my favourite night hangout for the next few days (since I don’t pub).